Stone Thickness and Edge Profiles

2 cm or 3 cm

Both are standard slab thicknesses. 2 cm is lighter, easier to handle and very common in Egyptian homes, on floors, walls, stairs, sills and countertops with a built-up edge. 3 cm is stiffer and carries more on its own.

Choose 3 cm when the stone spans a gap, overhangs a breakfast bar, forms an island end panel or sits on a vanity with little support underneath. 2 cm is fine when the stone rests fully on a solid base, such as cabinets with a proper top frame, a floor bed or a stair structure.

Whatever the thickness, support matters more than the number. A 3 cm slab on crooked cabinets can still crack. A 2 cm slab on a level, solid base does its job.

Laminated edges (دبل)

A laminated edge, called دبل in the trade, is a strip of the same stone bonded under the front edge so a 2 cm counter looks twice as thick or more. It gives a solid, heavy look without the weight of a thick slab across the whole top.

A good laminated edge has a tight, colour-matched joint that is hard to spot. Veined stones need the strip cut from the same slab and lined up with the veins. Ask to see a sample joint on the stone you chose, because some patterns hide it better than others.

Edge profiles

The edge profile is the shape of the exposed edge. It affects the look, how safe the edge is to bump into, and how easily it chips.

• Straight or eased: a square edge with the sharp corner lightly softened. Clean and modern, and the eased corner chips less.
• Bevel (مشطوف): the top corner is cut at an angle. Neat, with a little more detail that catches the light.
• Half bullnose (نص دائرة): the top is rounded and the bottom stays square. Kind to hips and children, and common on stair treads and counters.
• Full bullnose (دائرة كاملة): rounded top and bottom. Soft and classic, often used on sills, vanities and tables.
• Ogee: a decorative S-shaped profile. Suits classic interiors, but it usually needs a laminated edge for depth and collects a little more dirt.

Corners and homes with children

In a home with small children, rounded or eased edges are kinder than a sharp square edge. The outside corners of an L-shaped counter or an island can also be rounded when seen from above, which removes the point that heads meet at table height.

Drip grooves on sills and outdoor stone

Outside window sills (رخامة الشباك), wall copings and any stone that projects past a wall need a drip groove. This is a small channel cut along the underside, close to the front edge. Rainwater running under the stone reaches the groove and drops off instead of creeping back to the wall, where it leaves streaks and damp.

The groove goes on the outside part of the sill, and the sill itself should slope slightly away from the window. Inside sills do not need one.

Stairs: treads, risers and anti-slip grooves

A staircase has the tread you step on (درج) and the upright riser (قائم). The front edge of the tread, the nosing, usually gets a half bullnose or eased profile so it is comfortable and resists chipping.

For grip, anti-slip grooves are cut into the tread near the nosing. They are shallow parallel lines that give shoes something to catch. They help on polished indoor stairs and are strongly advised outdoors, where the stone should also have a textured finish such as flamed granite.

Match the skirting (وزرة) along the stairs and the threshold (عتبة) at doorways to the same stone and edge style, so the whole run looks planned.

Decide before measuring

Thickness and edges change how pieces are cut, so settle them before measuring (مقايسة). Tell us which edges are exposed, which sit against walls, and where sinks and appliances go. For stairs, expect each step to be measured, since treads and risers are not always equal in older buildings. If you are unsure, bring photos of the space and choose from real edge samples in your stone.